Ingredients

• For the fish stock
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 100g/4oz chopped white vegetables, such as white of leeks, fennel and onion
• 100ml/3½fl oz dry white wine
• 2 Arbroath smokies, roughly chopped
• For the soup
• 20g/¾oz unsalted butter
• 2 banana shallots, finely chopped
• 100g/4oz leek, white only, finely chopped
• 2 medium garlic cloves, crushed then finely chopped
• 200g/7oz Ratte potatoes (or similar waxy potatoes), boiled until tender then peeled
• 2 Arbroath smokies, skin and bones removed
• 100ml/3½fl oz whole milk
• 100ml/3½fl oz double cream
• freshly ground black pepper
• For the garnish
• 1 Arbroath smokie, skin and bones removed
• chopped chives

Method

1. For the fish stock, put the oil into a heavy saucepan and heat; then add the vegetables and stir well to coat with the oil. Cover and sweat over a low heat for about ten minutes; do not allow them to colour. Take the lid off the pan and pour in the white wine. Boil for one minute. Now add 1.2 litres/2 pints of water and the smokies. Bring up almost to the boil; then skim well. Reduce the heat and simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Allow to cool. Once cold, strain the stock through a very fine sieve, preferably lined with a double layer of muslin. (The stock can be made two days ahead and kept chilled until needed.)

2. To make the soup, put a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the butter and, when melted, add the shallots, leek and garlic. Cover and sweat for 5-10 minutes, but don’t allow the vegetables to colour.

3. Add the cooked potatoes. Flake the smokies and add to the pan. Cover and sweat for a further two minutes, then add 1 litre/1¾ pints of the reserved stock and season with freshly ground black pepper. Bring to the boil and simmer for 8-10 minutes.

4. Take the pan off the heat and allow to cool slightly. Carefully pour the mixture into a blender and put on the lid. Take the stopper out of the hole in the lid and cover the hole with a tea towel to stop the hot mix splattering. Blend for a few seconds; then gradually add the milk and cream through the hole. When the milk and cream is all added and the mixture is smooth, pass through a fine sieve to give a fine, velvety texture.

5. To serve, pour the soup into a clean pan and heat gently. Flake the remaining smokie and divide among four warmed shallow bowls. Ladle in the soup and garnish with chopped chives.

Ingredients

For the fennel and saffron broth

• 300ml/11fl oz vegetable stock
• ½ tsp saffron threads
• 2 tbsp pastis
• 50g/2oz butter
• 2 fennel bulbs with green fronds attached, fennel chopped in 1cm/½in pieces, fronds reserved
• 2 banana shallots, peeled, finely sliced into rings
• 150ml/5fl oz dry white wine
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tbsp chopped fresh chives

For the fennel frond tempura

• vegetable oil for frying
• 2 tbsp cornflour
• 2 tbsp chilled sparkling water
• reserved fennel fronds from fennel bulbs (see above)
• pinch salt

For the trout darnes

• 4 x 175g/6oz trout darne
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 25g/1oz butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1 lemon, juice only

Preparation method

1. For the fennel and saffron broth, bring the stock, saffron and pastis to the boil.
2. Meanwhile, heat half of the butter in a frying pan and fry the fennel and shallots over a low heat for 2-3 minutes, or until softened.
3. Pour in the white wine, bring to the boil and continue to cook until the volume of the liquid has reduced by half.
4. Add the stock mixture to the pan and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat until the mixture is simmering and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Whisk in the remaining butter and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir in the chives and set aside.
5. For the fennel frond tempura, heat the oil in a deep heavy-based frying pan until a breadcrumb sizzles and turns brown when dropped into it. (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended.)
6. Whisk the cornflour and sparkling water together in a bowl to form a smooth batter. Dip the fennel fronds into the batter, shaking off any excess, then fry in the vegetable oil for 20-30 seconds until pale golden-brown and crisp. (Do this is batches if necessary.)
7. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper. Season, to taste, with salt.
8. For the trout darnes, season the trout, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
9. Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan and fry the trout darnes for 2-3 minutes on each side, or until cooked through.
10. Remove the trout darnes from the pan and set aside to rest. Squeeze over lemon juice, to taste.
11. To serve, reheat the fennel and saffron broth, if necessary, and ladle into four shallow soup bowls. Top each with a trout darne and some fennel frond tempura.